Buying new gear for climbing is an investment. You’re investing not only in your future climbing endeavors, and you are counting on your gear to catch you when you fall.
With climbing becoming a more mainstream sport, there have been more and more design developments to make quickdraws safer and more effective when in use. Still, as more companies manufacture gear, it becomes hard to choose the best option for you.
We have broken down this “best of” article to be a buying guide so you can choose the best quickdraws based on your specific climbing needs. While we still tell you our top picks but we’ll also break down some budget options, the best quickdraw for different types of climbing, and how to break down the features each quickdraw has to offer.
Last update: 2024-04-23 / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
Our Favorites for the Best Quickdraws for Climbing
Our Favorites for the Best Quickdraws for ClimbingThis is a unanimous favorite in the climbing community. After its release, it quickly became a staple for sport climbing because of the lightweight design, grip features, and ease of clipping.
While it isn’t the most versatile option, if you primarily stick to sport climbing, this will be the last set of quickdraws you will need to buy. Petzl has long been a climbing gear company at the forefront of innovation and design, and this quickdraw is not an exception.
While this draw option will be more expensive, keep in mind that this purchase is an investment. This Petzl design is built to last, and it will likely last you the rest of your climbing career. If you are looking for a better deal when buying these draws, consider checking out the . When buying in bulk, you can save a few bucks.
Additional Features
- Available in two lengths: 11 and 17 cm
- Textured gate and Keylock system to make clipping and unclipping a breeze
- The straight gate on the bolt side carabiner and bent gate on the rope carabiner for easy gripping and clipping.
What Makes the Petzl Spirit Express Unique
- The Spirit’s dogbone has an unusual but handy tapered design. The make it easy to hold onto, and it is easier to grab that many other models.
- One of the lighter sport climbing specific draws, especially with the new design from 2019.
Why You Should Choose the Petzl Spirit Express
- If you’re strictly a sport climber looking for a top of the line draws to use on projects or redpointing, this will be the best buy.
- It is a durable design that allows for fluid clipping motions.
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Black Diamond LiveWire
This Black Diamond quickdraw model will be one of the top rivals to that of the Petzl Spirit Express. With many similarities in design, one primary difference is the hooded wire gate on the rope end carabiner. This wire gate carabiner adds extra strength to the draw and also lowers the weight.
Primarily used for hard sport routes, the LiveWire comes equipped with a 12 cm dogbone. This draw will be slightly heavier than the Petzl Spirit Express, but the prices will be comparable. The main factor that makes climbers favor the LiveWire over other similar options is the security of the hooded wire gate.
Additional Features
- Oversized carabiners for climbers that clip with their thumbs or just have larger hands
- Amazing clipping action with the wire gate carabiner
- Large carabiners and wide gate openings make unclipping easier as well
What Makes the Black Diamond LiveWire Unique
- The bottom carabiner is designed with a deep basket, curved spine, and some ridges for a better grip when clipping.
- Reliable design and thick dogbone make it easy to grab when necessary.
Why You Should Choose the Black Diamond LiveWire
- If you’re looking for a projecting carabiner that you can leave up for ease of clipping on the crux, this carabiner is both durable and has fast clipping action.
- Some climbers just prefer wire gates. That’s just it.
- Gate Type: [Nitron] straight, [LiveWire] wire
- Sling Width: 27 mm
- Sling Length: 12 cm
Last update: 2024-04-23 / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
Petzl Ange Finesse
With so many quickdraws on the market today, it can be tempting to buy multiple quickdraw styles for each type of climbing you enjoy. However, if you don’t want to purchase separate racks for multi-pitch routes and your sport projects, the Petzl Ange Finesse is one of the best options.
These draws will be slightly more expensive than the Petzl Spirit’s, but they are much more versatile. The best thing about them is that they are pretty customizable to your rack’s needs. They come with four different carabines and dogbone sizes. No matter the length that you choose, it will still be a lightweight quickdraw, which adds to its versatile nature.
Additional Features
- MonoFil Keylock nose and gate that makes it easy to unclip and clean.
- There’s a small black plastic piece at the top of each gate that helps to redirect the rope to the bottom of the gate to make it easier to clip.
- The tapered dogbone shape that is wider near the bottom. This makes it easier to grab when necessary on a sport route.
What Makes the Petzl Ange Finesse Unique
- The best thing about the Finesse is the ability to customize it to your climbing needs. Having not only the option of dogbone length but of carabiner size makes a big difference in weight and function.
- Super unique gate and nose design that comparatively makes unclipping a breeze.
Why You Should Choose the Petzl Ange Finesse
- The Finesse has often been called the “quiver of one” quickdraw in the climbing community. If you want a draw that can work for sport, trad, or even alpine, then you’ve found the one!
- You can customize your rack with only one variety of quickdraws.
- Ultra-light quickdraw
- Ultra-lightweight and durable quickdraw
- Efficient to use
Last update: 2024-04-23 / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw
This is going to be your most durable quickdraw option. Edelrid’s Bulletproof Quickdraw is reinforced with a small steel insert on the rope end carabiner. Steel is significantly heavier than aluminum, but that’s why they only put steel where it counts.
The steel insert protects from wear and tear of the rope. That’s what makes this the best quickdraw for anchors or the first bolt, where the rope creates more friction. This premature wear of the first clip was the main reason for designing this draw, and Edelrid executed beautifully.
Since this will be one of the most expensive options, most climbers will only invest in two or three to add to their rack. Plus, with the additional weight of the steel, having an entire set of these draws would seem a bit overkill.
Additional Features
- Keylock gate to make unclipping easier
- Comes in two lengths: 12 and 18 cm
- Rubber, anti-twist fixing to prevent the lower carabiner from flipping
What Makes the Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw Unique
- The obvious is the steel-reinforced rope end carabiner to prevent premature wear.
- This quickdraw is quality. The biners are a great size, the dogbone is thick and easy to grab, and the nose of the carabiner is narrow to make it even easier to clip.
Why You Should Choose the Edelrid Bulletproof Quickdraw
- Estimated to last up to 5-10 times longer than other quickdraws on the market. So, if you’re looking for the best anchor quickdraws, these are it.
- With that kind of lifespan, the price tag of just one or two of these will be worth it over time.
- COMBO PACK: One bullet carabiner and one bulletproof carabiner with keylock closure for optimal handling when clipping/ unclipping
- PREVENTS WEAR: Steel insert in lower carabiner prevents premature wear due to rope friction
- OPTIMAL USE OF MATERIAL: H-shape construction ensures best possible use of material and minimal weight. High-strength 15 / 22 mm narrow/wide polyamide quick draw sling
Last update: 2024-04-23 / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
Our Runner Ups for the Best Quickdraws for Climbing
Black Diamond Oz Quickdraw
If you’re primarily a trad climber, then this should be at the top of your list. The Black Diamond Oz is one of the best trad climbing quickdraws out there for a few reasons. It is very lightweight, and it is also easy to use.
The dogbone on this draw is only 10mm wide. So, the biggest competition for a trad draw would be the Petzl Finesse just for the dogbone alone. However, this draw is super affordable and has excellent clipping action.
Additional Features
- Hooded wire gate carabiners that make it easy to clip and unclip.
- It only weighs 63 grams! That will make for a light rack.
- Narrow dogbone to shed even more weight off, but that does make it more difficult to grab at times.
What Makes the Black Diamond Oz Quickdraw Unique
- It has a simple design, but it is super functional. Since there are no bells and whistles around these guys, it makes for a light and super easy to use product.
- Many draws on the market today are sport-focused, making this one unique as it is one of the only trad specific draws out there.
Why You Should Choose the Black Diamond Oz Quickdraw
- With its lightweight design, you don’t have to feel weighed down, carrying a couple of extra draws, even on the longest routes.
- As most trad climbers will like, these draws are super affordable. You can’t go wrong with a perfectly priced, high-quality product!
- Excellent protection without hindering activity
- Purpose designed and built
- Cutting-edge climbing equipment is designed and built for the send across the full spectrum of climbing pursuits
Last update: 2024-04-23 / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
DMM Alpha VW Sport Quickdraw
This is another super reliable sport quickdraw, hence the name. This will be another rival of the Petzl Spirit Express and the Black Diamond LiveWire.
The bottom carabiner is where this quickdraw will shine in comparison to the rest. It has a deep curve in the gate to facilitate clipping. Now, this is not uncommon to have a bent gate, but this one is noticeably sharper. This is to facilitate a smoother clip, especially for climbers that clip with their thumbs.
Overall, this is a super high-quality design, and the price reflects that. This will cost more than the Spirit Express and is much closer in price to the Edelrid Bulletproof draws.
Additional Features
- Ridgid carabiner spine design to make handling even more comfortable.
- Three sizes to choose from: 12cm, 18cm, and 25cm
- Deep rope basket in bottom carabiner to make clipping even easier as the rope will just fall into place
What Makes the DMM Alpha VW Sport Unique
- The bottom carabiner is exceptionally unique in comparison to other sport draws. The extreme curve, grippy back bar, and deep basket all make clipping a breeze.
- Having more than two size options is excellent! This lets you have super functional draws for clipping but also more versatile routes.
Why You Should Choose the DMM Alpha VW Sport
- If you are a sport climber that is a stickler for the highest quality equipment, then this will be the investment for you. This is one of the most expensive draws on the market, but it will not let you down.
- Sport carabiners are mounted on durable nylon to create robust and easily clipped quickdraws. Sport carabiners have extra material in areas of high wear to deal with the repeated falls and intensive use of sport climbing. The nylon sling used to connect the carabiners is highly durable and easy to grab when working routes.
- The Alphaâ€â„s shape fits naturally in the hand, and combines with its large gate opening to make the carabiner very easy to clip. Grooves on the back bar increase grip for confident handling.
- Solid gates are robust and give positive handling. Grooves in the gate give extra grip, increasing control when making tricky clips. Solid gates are also better able to deal with the wear and tear of modern sport climbing.
Last update: 2024-04-23 / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
Our Value Picks for the Best Budget Quickdraws for Climbing
Black Diamond FreeWire
If you’re on a tight budget, these draws are a great option. Versatile enough to be used for both trad and sport climbing, the Black Diamond Freewire’s cost no more than that hipster brunch you got last Sunday. They’re even more affordable if you buy them in a pack a six as opposed to individually.
While these will not be the lightest or the easiest quickdraw to clip, they will do the job. They are durable, and without a doubt, they will catch your fall.
Additional Features
- Rubber insert in the dogbone keeps the bottom carabiner in the proper position.
- Wire gates for all those die hard wire gate fans. Wire gates do ultimately eliminate gate fluttering after all.
- They come in two lengths: 12cm or 16cm
What Makes the Black Diamond FreeWire Unique
- Dual wire gate HotWire carabiners make for added performance and likely a longer lifespan.
- The dogbone is 18mm polyester, making it strong and also easy to handle without a complicated design.
Why You Should Choose the Black Diamond FreeWire
- Most budget quickdraws will not have the versatility that the Freewire does. So, if you want an affordable draw for both your sport and trad rack, this is a good option.
- If you want a high-quality draw without breaking the bank, this is a great pick! You will not have to compromise the quality or strength of materials by spending less here.
- FREEWIRE QUICKDRAW 12cm
Last update: 2024-04-23 / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
Mad Rock Concorde Quickdraw
As another budget option, this quickdraw is an excellent investment if you’re looking for an affordable draw that is also kind of light. Like the Black Diamond FreeWire, the Mad Rock Concorde is super affordable and even more so if you buy them in a pack of six.
The Mad Rock Super Lite will be lighter than the Concorde, but the Concorde has better clipping action overall. The extra weight of the carabiners is not significant, and they have a shape that is much easier to handle. That being said, if you’re looking for an ultralight trad draw, this may not be the best option, but they are a great sport climbing one.
Additional Features
- 10mm / 10cm dogbone to make it light without compromising strength
- Wire gate carabiners one both ends to prevent fluttering
- Dyneema dog bone for extra strength
What Makes the Mad Rock Concorde Unique
- Narrow dogbone makes for a lightweight option
- These carabiners were warm forged, which is why they are more inexpensive than others. The production time is minimized, but the strength is not compromised.
Why You Should Choose the Mad Rock Concorde
- Lightweight and affordable making it the perfect buy for a climber looking to cut down rack weight without spending a fortune.
- The versatile design makes these draws can be used beyond sport climbing. In fact, many trad climbers are drawn to these as they are affordable, yet reliable.
- Major Axis: 27 kN
- Minor Axis:10 kN
- Open Gate: 8 kN
Last update: 2024-04-24 / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
How to Choose the Best Quickdraws for Climbing for You
Before you invest in any number of new quickdraws, you should consider both your budget, how many quickdraws you need, and the type of climbing you do the most.
If you are just starting and are looking to buy your first set, it can be tempting to buy a budget set. In the long run, this can end up costing you more. Eventually, you will outgrow the budget option, or they will begin to wear out, and you will need to invest in new draws anyway. So, if you can afford it, it can be worth it to get higher quality draws right off the bat.
Once you’ve decided on your price range and versatility required, move forward onto the research stage. If you’re reading this article, you’re likely in that stage already! That’s great!
If you have a climbing community you are already a part of, it can be useful to get their opinion as well. We have some excellent information for you on here, but having a first-hand review from a friend or trusted climbing mentor can be just as informative.
What’s even better than that is if your climbing partner owns a few different kinds of draws. This can give you a chance to test them out for yourself in person. This will not be an option for everyone, but if it is a possibility, don’t pass it up!
If you are building a rack for the first time, you will want to invest in 10-12 quickdraws or alpine draws. This can seem daunting, but you can also work to build a full rack over time. Just be sure that you buy enough draws for your needs and the routes that you intend to climb.
Key Differentiators of Quickdraws for Climbing
As mentioned in the section about how to choose your quickdraws, one defining factor will be the type of climbing you do. Beyond that, considerations should be made concerning design and personal preference.
Sport vs. Trad vs. Alpine Quickdraws
Sport quickdraws will be the most common on the market simply because it is a more common type of climbing. Some sport and trad quickdraws will be interchangeable, but there will be very few draws versatile enough for sport, trad, and alpine.
Primary Features of Sport Quickdraws
- Medium to Large Carabiners
- Bent Gate Carabiners
- Wide or Tapered Dogbone
- Keylock Nose
- Solid Gate Carabiners (not in all cases but usually the case)
- Rubber grommet on the outside of dogbone
Primary Features of Trad Quickdraws
- Small to Medium Carabiners
- Keylock-like Nose
- Wire Gate Carabiners
- Skinny Dogbone
- Rubber retainer on the inside of dogbone
Primary Features of Alpine Draws
- Two small or medium carabiners connected with a sling
- Often referred to as “extenders”
Solid-Gate vs. Wiregate Quickdraws
There has long been debated in the climbing community upon the preference of solid versus wire gate quickdraws. While it will eventually come down to preference and clipping ease, there are advantages and disadvantages to both options.
However, wire gates will always have a safety advantage over solid gates.
Wire gate carabiners have a lower mass than solid-gates do. This advantage comes into play when the draw catches a fall. During this interaction with the rope and distribution of force, the carabiner could potentially flutter open. When a carabiner is even open just slightly, it is not as strong and is more prone to breaking.
Since wire gate carabiners are lighter, the vibrations are less likely to cause them to open in this instance. Therefore, wire gate carabiners are considered safer and sometimes stronger. While the flutter and break of a carabiner are exceedingly rare, it still does happen, and it is essential to be aware of it.
Solid-Gate carabiners usually are a feature of a sport climbing draw. This is because they tend to allow for a more fluid clipping action. They will either be a bent gate or a straight gate. Some solid-gate carabiners will also be a keylock.
Trad and alpine climbers often gravitate to wire gate carabiners for their draws as they are lighter and safer. Some wire gate hybrid draws have been designed with a keylock action that helps give a smoother clipping action as well.
Other Important Things to Consider When Buying Quickdraws
The carabiner style is not the only feature worth mentioning, though. All aspects of a quickdraw play into the weight and functionality of the system overall.
Quickdraw Length and Weight
The length of your draw will be dependant on the length of the dogbone or sling connecting the carabiners. Even if you are strictly a sport climber, it can be helpful to have some versatility to draw length for those routes that wander. This can help to prevent rope drag and even make reaching bolts when clipping easier.
As for the weight of your draw, this will depend on the type of climbing you do most often. If you are an alpine climber, you do not want to be lugging any extra weight up as you go. The same goes for multi-pitch trad climbs.
If you are going to be doing some burns at the sport crag and you have a short approach, well then, weight is not an issue. However, if you are a sport climber that likes long climbs, you may want a lighter load.
Quickdraw Strength
The overall strength of the quickdraw will be determined by the strength of the dogbone and carabiners. Each is tested separately, and then they are tested to pass CE inspection. You can check for inspection by finding CE printed next to the four numbers on your carabiner.
The minimum CE requirements for a carabiner will be 20kN at the major axis and 7kN at the minor axis and gate open. Most carabiners will test slightly above these numbers, but that is the baseline. If your gear is not CE certified, as long as they meet those minimum strength requirements, you should be fine.
When new, certified slings and dogbones must rate at 22kN. Different materials must all be tested and rated at 22kN to be fully CE certified. The primary difference in the material will be its lifespan and how it holds up to UV wear.
Over time, the dogbone will lose some strength. This is especially true if you leave draws hanging on a project outside. Just as you inspect your rope for weak spots, you should be checking your dogbones and slings as well.
What are the Quickdraw Dogbones Made of?
Quickdraw dogbones or slings are all either made from nylon. Polyester, or polyethylene. Brand names of polyethylene include Dyneema, Dynex, and Spectra.
Standard dogbones can be differentiated from slings and runners by their bartack sewing. They will be folded over themselves three times and then sewn in the overlap.
Do You Compromise Anything Buying Budget Quickdraws?
When buying budge quickdraws, the one thing you for sure will not compromise is safety. All you may compromise is either weight, functionality, and ease of clipping.
Budget draws will get the job done. Eventually, if you can afford it, it can be helpful to upgrade your gear. This will make clipping a breeze and can add versatility to your rack.
Summary of the Best Quickdraws for Climbing
When it comes down to it, there is always going to be some variation to the best quickdraws for climbing. It will vary from climber to climber as their needs and budget will differ. If you are looking for a high-quality sport draw, then should be a top pick.
If you want a good all-around draw, you should invest in Petzl’s Ange Finesse. Buying on a budget is doable with the Black Diamond FreeWire, and if you’re strictly trad, check out the Black Diamond Oz.
Finding the perfect draw for you will take time, and your preference will change as your climbing career progresses. Still, take your time and try a different style, and eventually, you’ll find the perfect quickdraws for your rack.
Did you enjoy this post? Then you’ll love our other climbing gear reviews. You’d also probably like our review on the best harnesses here, best belay glasses (for when you’re belaying your lead climber), and best cam set for trad.
