With so many incredible climbing and bouldering destinations all across the US, it can feel like an overwhelming task to figure out where you should go climbing next. If you ever find yourself in the Southeast and looking for a fun climbing destination, look no further than Rocktown, Georgia!
In this article, we’ll give you a guide to bouldering Rocktown. From discussing the layout of the area to breaking down some of the rules and regulations of Rocktown, we’ve got you covered. Make sure you check out this Rocktown bouldering guide before your next adventure!
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Overview of Rocktown
Overview of RocktownWith over 500 established boulder problems, gorgeous sandstone holds, and the close proximity to camping, it’s hard to beat Rocktown for a weekend getaway. Located in the Crockford Pigeon Mountain Wildlife Management Area, Rocktown is home to lots of 4-star boulder problems. The trails are easy to find and simple to navigate, making it a fun and stress-free bouldering location.
Rocktown is known for having stellar boulder problems that cover a large range of grades, making it a great destination for groups of climbers. The majority of the problems in Rocktown fall between V2 and V5, which is a perfect range of grades to find plenty of easier problems while still finding lots of challenges.
Although Rocktown is a little bit less well-known than some of the other big-name climbing destinations in the Southeast, it is certainly gaining more popularity as time goes on. It still holds on to much of its off-the-beaten-path charm, though, as it can be hard to find if you don’t know where to go and is located off a single dirt road.
This secluded area is filled with spectacular boulders and is ideal for a weekend of climbing in the fall or spring when the temps are perfect for sending!
Why You Should Climb Rocktown?
Why You Should Climb Rocktown?
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Rocktown bouldering is known for its great features. If you are looking for fun climbs with cool rails, huevos, and slopers. With plenty of boulders, there is almost always somewhere for your group to settle down and boulder. If the front boulders get filled up, the maze of boulders deeper into the woods offers tons of awesome problems and plenty of 4-star classics.
When is the Best Time to Go Bouldering in Rocktown?
When is the Best Time to Go Bouldering in Rocktown?Many climbers say that you should climb at Rocktown from Labor Day to Memorial Day, but the best time to climb here is in the fall. Fall is filled with minimal rain and perfect sending temps, ensuring that the sandstone stays dry and grippy. Expect that the temps at Rocktown will be slightly cooler than the lower-lying areas surrounding the mountain, but you can still climb at Rocktown all through the fall, winter, and spring.
What are the Grades of the Bouldering Problems in Rocktown?
What are the Grades of the Bouldering Problems in Rocktown?The Rocktown trail takes you to the over 500 boulders located in the area and allows you to access boulders ranging in difficulty from V0 all the way up to V10. This incredible range of bouldering grades is part of what makes Rocktown so attractive as a weekend getaway. Once you get comfortable climbing the sandstone of Rocktown, you’ll have plenty of boulders of various grades to try your hands at.
3 Best Bouldering Areas in Rocktown
3 Best Bouldering Areas in Rocktown
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With so many different bouldering areas in Rocktown, it can be hard to pick just a few to visit on your first trip. Here are some of our favorite areas and boulders to hit during your next trip to Rocktown. These boulders have a good amount of problems on them and offer a larger range of difficulty than other boulders, making them a must-see on your next trip.
1. Hueco Simulator
Hueco Simulator is a great boulder to start your day at. The boulder consists of 17 different boulder problems, with a handful of really fun V0 problems. Warming up at Hueco Simulator will help you get a good feel for what the rock at Rocktown feels like before you move on to more challenging problems.
2. The Croc Boulder
If you are looking for unique boulder problems in the V3 to V4 range, look no further than The Croc Boulder. This boulder, located just down the trail from Hueco Simulator, is a tall and slightly overhanging boulder with lots of fun moves to keep every climber entertained.
3. Sherman Roof
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Looking for some overhanging boulders? Sherman Roof has got you covered! This small roof is packed with ten boulder problems ranging from V1 all the way up to a V8 traverse around the rock. With some awesome classic climbs, this boulder is a must-do for anyone new to the area.
Remember that all of the rock at Rocktown is sandstone, and if you are not used to sandstone, it can take some adjusting to figure out how to climb on the grippy and soft rock.
The best Rocktown bouldering tips we can offer you to help you succeed at any of these amazing boulders is to understand the rock. Sandstone is soft, so things can break, but it has great texture, so make sure you practice smearing before you go. This will set you up for success on any of these boulders.
Important Things to Note When Planning to Climb Rocktown
Important Things to Note When Planning to Climb RocktownFor your sake and the sake of everyone who will climb at Rocktown after you, please follow the rules and regulations of the area! It is essential to respect the landowners when accessing climbing areas, as they are the people and groups that allow climbers to climb on the rocks.
Rocktown is located on land managed by the Georgia Department of Natural Resources (DNR), and they do charge an access fee.
Here is a company that offers an excellent online guidebook for Rocktown:
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Here are some things to consider before bouldering at Rocktown:
1. Permitting system
You must purchase either a day-use permit or an annual pass in order to access the land and climb at Rocktown. You have to buy your permit ahead of your trip to Rocktown, as there is no way to purchase a pass on-site, and there is no service to purchase one online once you arrive. Tickets for not having a permit are around $120 but are always subject to change.
Climbers are notorious for being cheap and ignoring permitting systems, but ultimately, the money from these permits goes back to keeping the climbing areas open. Money from permits goes to maintaining the parking lot and trails. In addition, paying for a permit will help the Georgia DNR have a better idea of how many people are using the land and, thus, what the impacts might be.
Here is the website where you can purchase a permit.
2. Bathrooms
There are no bathrooms at Rocktown, so make sure that you are prepared to pack all of your waste and your pet’s waste if you bring a dog with you out. Dogs are allowed on leash in the area, but both human and dog waste have been becoming a large problem in the area. A good rule of thumb is to always follow the Leave No Trace (LNT) principles, especially in a high-traffic wilderness setting like Rocktown.
Make sure that you bag any dog waste and hike it out with you. If you use toilet paper or have any other trash from your day at Rocktown, that will also need to be packed out.
Unfortunately, this also includes your human waste. While it is acceptable in many wilderness areas to dig a cat hole to poop in, this is not ok in high-traffic areas, as the holes are often not deep enough and will end up attracting pests. It doesn’t sound nice, but the best option is to pack your own excrement out, too.
Here is the LNT website for more information on these principles
3. Camping
Camping is located a three-minute drive from the parking lot and only costs $3 a night, making it incredibly accessible. That being said, this is not a fancy campground with all the amenities you may be used to. Expect camping at Rocktown to be busy on weekend nights and have no potable water or bathroom, so plan ahead.
To get to the camping area, simply leave the Rocktown parking lot and turn left. About a mile down the road, you will turn right at the sign for Sawmill Lake. The camping is just down the road and is first come, first serve. Same as with the bathroom situation at the trails, please be respectful and follow the principles of LNT.
Figuring out how to get to Rocktown and the camping nearby has been made a lot easier in recent years. Neither used to be listed on maps, but now, with so many going to both Rocktown and the nearby camping, finding and following the directions is so much easier!
Wrapping Things Up: A Guide to Bouldering Rocktown
Rocktown is the perfect weekend getaway climbing destination. With a good range of boulder problems and a low cost associated with climbing there, it ticks a lot of boxes. Make sure that if you go to Rocktown, you take care of this hidden gem so that others can enjoy it in the future. We hope that your Rocktown adventures are amazing and that this article helped you find the information you need for your trip to be a success.
Looking for more guides? Check out more of our climbing tips here.
Here are a few to help you out:
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