Since March 7th, I’ve been riding a streak of really solid climbing. Today I ended with a fifth 40+ point session!
Overall, it was a solid climbing session. I completed my first ever 5.11c on top-rope (and the first I’ve ever tried). What I’m realizing is so much of my upper limits right now are psychological. I’m not sending higher grades because I’m not actively pushing myself to do the higher grades.
The other thing that I’ve found since beginning this streak is that the extra 15-20 minutes for a more comprehensive warmup has been a gamechanger for me. Instead of pyramiding like I did in January, I start out at the lowest grades and do roughly two problems of that level before moving on to the next. When I started this log in January, what I’d do is do a V1, then V2, V3, V2, V1, etc. Now I just go for V0, V0, V1, V1, V2, V2, etc.
Today’s 5.11c wasn’t perfect — I don’t have the endurance right now so had to take three rests in finishing it. I’m confident I could start clearing more of these without resting if I top-roped more regularly. The 5.11c felt a bit like three V4s stacked one after another. I made it about 2/3 of the way up without any difficulties before the route got a little crimpy. Happy to have finished it though.
Here are the day’s stats:
| Warmup | 15 pull-ups | |
| Training | ||
| Grade | Outcome | Points |
| V0 (5.8 – 5.9) | ✓✓ | 1 |
| V1 (5.9 – 5.10a) | ✓✓ | 2 |
| V2 (5.10a – 5.10c) | ✓✓ | 4 |
| V3 (5.10c -5.10d) | ✓✓ | 6 |
| V4 (5.11a) | ✓×✓✓ | 13 |
| V5 (5.11b) | ✓×✓ | 11 |
| V6 (5.11c) | (✓) | 12 |
| V7 (5.11d) | 0 | |
| TOTAL | 49 | |
| Cooldown | 10 pull-ups 20 squats |
|
| Recap | 14 sends, 2 failures |
2018 YTD
- 343 sends (+14)
- 118 failures (+2)
- 620 pull-ups (+25)
- 205 pushups
- 157 biceps
- 22 triceps
- 110 forearms
- 48 shoulders
- 180 squats (+20)
- 10 peg / campus / hang board
- 655 ab reps
