Retrospective #3: Recapping sessions 21-30 of 2018

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Ten workouts have passed since my last retrospective, which means it’s time to run the numbers. In case you haven’t been following along, I analyze my climbing data every ten workouts to see how I’m doing at a more macro level. Here’s the link to my second retrospective.

This stretch was an incredibly strong period of climbing. In my second set of climbs this year, I sent my first V6. I continued to push myself in sessions #21-30 as I sent a few more V6s.

Sends:

Grade Count %
V0 20 13.33%
V1 19 12.67%
V2 19 12.67%
V3 34 22.67%
V4 37 24.67%
V5 18 12.00%
V6 3 2.00%
V7 0

Failures:

Grade Count %
V0 0
V1 0
V2 0
V3 1 2.50%
V4 6 15.00%
V5 20 50.o0%
V6 6 15.00%
V7 2 5.00%
V8 5 12.50%

Warmup/Cooldown: 

Exercises Count Average/Session
Pull-Ups 215 21.5
Pushups 20 2
Biceps 0 0
Triceps 0 0
Forearms 0 0
Shoulders 0 0
Squats 60 6
Peg Board / Hang or Campus Board 9 0.9
Abs 90 9
Total Points 499 49.9

Visualized into a pie chart, here are my sends and failures from my last ten sessions.

I went on an absolute tear between February 21st and March 18th. My average point total for sessions 21-30 was 49.9, +12.45 points from the last stretch!

I’m really happy how these ten sessions went, especially given how I took a minor step back in my second set of sessions compared to my first. The only knock on this stretch was I completely ignored regular exercises (as you can tell from my warmup and cooldown stats).

The main tweak I made was reintroducing pyramiding grades of problems for warm up (starting at V0, working up to V1, V2, etc.). Overall, doing so brought up the volume of problems I did in each session and my overall point totals.

Aside from the high level stats, I’m happy with how my failures worked out in this third stretch — I pushed myself considerably including a few tries at V7s and V8s.

Looking forward to the next ten sessions.

Best session in this stretch: 3/10/2018 – 91.5 points, ironically exactly a month from my prior PR.

Worst session: 3/5/2018 – 37 points. Tough day where I couldn’t send a particular V5.

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