Retrospective #2: Recapping sessions 11-20 of 2018

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Crazy how fast time have flown this year. It’s been another ten sessions since my first retrospective. This second stretch was marred by some inconsistency between sessions, travel, and overall frustration on the walls. One blue V5 really set me back in terms of failures in this stretch.

One of the big highlights in sessions 11-20 was sending my first V6 for 2018. Hopefully one of many to come.

Sends:

Grade Count %
V0 6 6.06%
V1 6 6.06%
V2 19 19.19%
V3 26 26.26%
V4 31 31.31%
V5 10 10.10%
V6 1 1.01%
V7 0

Failures:

Grade Count %
V0 0
V1 0
V2 0
V3 3 6.98%
V4 6 13.95%
V5 32 74.42%
V6 2 4.65%
V7 0

Warmup/Cooldown: 

Exercises Count Average/Session
Pull-Ups 135 13.5
Pushups 70 7
Biceps 91 9.1
Triceps 10 1
Forearms 60 6
Shoulders 18 1.8
Squats 120 12
Peg Board / Hang or Campus Board 1 0.1
Abs 305 30.5
Total Points 374.5 37.45

Visualized into a pie chart, here are my sends and failures from my second ten sessions.

My climbing successes in set 2 of 2018

My climbing failures in set 2 of 2018

As I expected, my average point total for sessions 11-20 went down in this stretch. I averaged a 37.45 for each climbing session, down 1.15 points from the start of the year.

I’m pretty disappointed with how I’ve climbed so far in the first half of February. I took a step back considering in my first ten sessions, close to a fifth of my climbs were coming in at a V5 grade. While some of this can be attributed to a few of these sessions having been top-rope instead of bouldering, I could have made up for the points with harder bouldering sessions.

The other letdown for me was that my success rate on my V5 sends went down to 23.81%, compared to 51.35% in my first ten sessions. This is a huge step back and really draws out my inconsistency.

One positive trend is that my success rate on V4s went up from 79.49% in my first ten sessions to 83.78% in this second set.

From reviewing my warmup and cooldown for sessions 11-20, it’s eye-opening for me to see that I’ve averaged 13.5 pull-ups in my last ten training sessions compared to 29 in my first ten sessions.

Overall, I’m happy to have sent my first V6 of 2018, but not thrilled with how I’ve been climbing. I’ll look to rebound in this third stretch by pushing for more 40 point sessions.

Best session in this stretch: 2/10/2018 – 47 points, a good rebound session with top-rope worked in.

Worst session: 2/2/2018 – 24 points. An intentionally light session to recover from the climb before it.

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