With so many amazing climbing areas across the US, it can be hard to pick which one you should visit next! In this article, we’ll be talking about Joe’s Valley. We’ll be giving you all the Joe’s Valley climbing tips and information you need to decide if a climbing trip to this amazing bouldering area is in your future.
Overview of Joe’s Valley Bouldering
If you are looking for a bouldering spot with a good range of grades and easy access, Joe’s Valley might be the place for you. Located just outside of Orangeville, Ut, Joe’s Valley is home to hundreds of boulder problems spread out across a few main climbing areas. Although there are a handful of smaller areas, most of the problems are located in either New Joe’s, the Left Fork, or the Right Fork.
Joe’s Valley is known for its sandstone boulders that are relatively easy on the hands. The rock tends not to be too crumbly while not being too sharp, either. An ideal fall climbing destination, its ease of access and minimal costs, combined with the exceptional number of boulder problems, make Joe’s Valley an awesome climbing destination.
Why You Should Climb Joe’s Valley
Joe’s Valley is a great place for any boulderer. The climbs range from easy to challenging, with plenty spread across every grade. The boulders are located only a few minutes from most of the parking areas, making most approaches a breeze, especially compared to some other places out west. The rock is grippy but not sharp. We could go on and on with all the reasons why you should climb at Joe’s Valley!
Ultimately, you will find something to love in Joe’s Valley if you are a climber. With so many boulder problems located in such a gorgeous area and easy access to camping, accommodations, food, and supplies, Joe’s Valley offers it all. Check the weather before you come to Joe’s, though, as the high desert weather can make or break a trip to Joe’s Valley.
When is the Best Time to Climb Joe’s Valley?
The best time to climb Joe’s Valley is in the fall. With daytime highs reaching into the high 60s and 70s, climbing temps are perfect! Since Joe’s Valley is in the high desert, the nighttime temperatures will get close to freezing, even with the warm daytime temps, meaning that climbing in Joe’s Valley much later than the beginning of November can be a challenge.
Joe’s Valley climbing season stretches from early spring to late fall, although most people opt not to come during the hot summer months and instead aim for the fall or spring. There is plenty of shade, though, so climbing here in the summer is not unbearable, but it will be hot.
What Climbing Grade is Required at Joe’s Valley?
Joe’s Valley has over 700 boulder problems, making it a great place to go with your friends due to the sheer number of climbs available. On top of that, most of the climbs in Joe’s Valley fall between the grade ranges of V0 to V7, meaning that while there are plenty of easy problems, there are also plenty of more challenging problems.
If you are looking for a challenge, Joe’s Valley also has plenty of those! With boulder problems up to a V13, Joe’s Valley has it all! This is a great place to come with a group of climbers with various experience levels. Starting out your climbing career at Joe’s Valley can be just as enjoyable as climbing here as an experienced climber looking for a challenge.
What are the Top Bouldering Spots to Explore in Joe’s Valley?
If you are looking for a guide to bouldering Joe’s Valley that can help you find the best bouldering spots in the valley, look no further than the official Joe’s Valley bouldering guidebook. Unlike other guidebooks, this one is located in the Kaya app and is regularly updated in order to maintain the most up-to-date record of Joe’s Valley’s best spots to hit.
Here are some of our favorite bouldering sports to explore in Joe’s Valley:
- Riverside Boulders
With classic routes like “The Angler” (V2) and “Low Tide” (V6), riverside boulders offer a super fun selection of routes ranging from V0 to V7, making it a great rock to go with for a day of climbing. Featuring 25 boulder problems, Riverside Boulders is a great place located on the Left Fork of Joe’s Valley.
- Raiden Area Boulders
Another great place to climb in the Left Fork is the Raiden Area Boulders. This group of boulders features 13 amazing climbs, including a few classics such as “The Kraken” (V4) and “The Grateful Dead” (V4). Raiden Area Boulders is a perfect option for a more experienced group since the problems here range from V4 to V9.
- Warm-up Area Bouldering
Hosting 26 boulder problems ranging mostly from V0 to V6, the Warm-up Area is a perfect place in the Right Fork to go with a group of newer climbers. The area is easy to get to and has plenty of fun and easy climbs. It even hosts some classics like “Better Than Coffee” (V3) and “3 Weeks” (V6).
View this post on Instagram
Important Things to Note When Planning to Climb Joe’s Valley
Here are some of the things that you’ll want to consider before heading off to boulder in Joe’s Valley:
Camping is plentiful near Joe’s Valley, which is just one of the many benefits of climbing here. There is free camping near New Joe’s, the Left Fork, and the Right Fork. If you want to pay for camping and get more amenities, there are a number of campgrounds past the climbing area near the reservoir that you can camp at as well. Even at the paid sites, it will only cost you between $10-20 for a site, making it an adorable place to camp.
View this post on Instagram
Joe’s Valley Directions
Getting to Joe’s Valley is relatively straightforward since the climbing is all about 10-15 minutes outside of town. Head West out of Orangeville, UT, on Highway 29 before turning right onto Highway 57 to get to the bouldering at New Joe’s or stay on Highway 29 until the road branches into the left and right forks. Most of the boulders are only a few minutes off the road, so just figure out what pull-out you want to park at to access the boulders you want to climb.
Overall, climbing at Joe’s Valley has very few costs associated with it. Unlike many other climbing areas with steep entrance fees and camping fees, Joe’s Valley is a perfect place for a budget climbing trip. Just remember that since the camping is free, it doesn’t come with much. This means that you’ll need to pay for showers elsewhere and fill up your water in town.
What are Some Safety Tips and Considerations for Bouldering in Joe’s Valley?
Of course, outdoor bouldering and climbing has its own host of challenges, and while Joe’s Valley is relatively safe compared to many other outdoor climbing locations, it does have some things to be aware of:
Because Joe’s Valley is located in the high desert, the daily temperature highs and lows can vary greatly. Make sure you are dressed for the weather, and bring plenty of layers. Layers are key to comfort in the outdoors as they allow you to really customize how much warmth you are wearing at any point in time.
- Environmental protection
Lots of effort is being put into preserving Joe’s Valley as an awesome climbing area for future generations. Please make sure that you follow the Leave No Trace (LNT) principles and pack all your trash out. Stay on marked trails and leave each boulder cleaner than you found it. Remember that others are trying to enjoy nature as well, and you don’t want to be the one to ruin it.
Be aware that cell communication is very limited at Joe’s Valley. Both AT&T and Verizon have no cell coverage in the area. Although this might change in the future as coverage expands, don’t expect to have any coverage during your trip to Joe’s Valley. Plan accordingly and make sure you have a plan of what to do if your group does get separated.
Wrapping Things Up: A Guide to Bouldering Joe’s Valley
With hundreds of routes to choose from, Joe’s Valley makes a great addition to any bouldering bucket list. Located only 15 minutes outside of Orangeville, Utah and only minutes from plentiful and free camping, Joe’s Valley is the perfect blend of accessible and exciting. From the Right Fork to the Left Fork and even in New Joe’s, the boulder problems are easy to get to and fun to climb.
Looking for more guides? Check out more of our climbing tips here.
Here are a few to help you out: