Dyno might make you think of dinosaurs, but we’re talking about the leaping moves that rock climbers sometimes make as they ascend walls. Figuring out how to dyno climb might seem hard, but it doesn’t have to be that way. We are here to help you understand how to dyno safely as well as all the types of dynos in climbing.
What is a Dyno in Rock Climbing?
A Dyno, or a dynamic move in climbing, is a move that involves jumping from one set of holds to another. In the middle of a dyno, you will very briefly have no points of contact with the rock or wall, making a dyno a great way to either move up the wall fast or fall.
Launching off from a dyno is not the hard part. Catching onto the new holds and getting your body resituated on the wall is the most challenging part of a dyno. Dynos are used throughout climbing but are most common in vertical or overhanging climbs.
Why is it called a dyno? The simplest answer is that the term dyno is short for dynamic, and dynos are a very dynamic form of climbing. Of course, you can be a dynamic climber without doing dynos, but you have to be dynamic in order to do dynos.
What Affects Dyno Climbing?
Completing a dyno will depend on various factors, including your height, strength, and technique. Here is a breakdown of how these major factors will impact your ability to dyno.
Unfortunately, for shorter climbs, dynos will be longer. For a taller climber, the distance of a dyno will be shorter, while a shorter climber will have to launch themselves farther. This isn’t to say that a shorter climber can’t be good at dynos, but just to say that it will take more practice as a short climber to be good at dynos.
Strength is a necessary part of completing a dyno. You not only need the strength in your legs to launch yourself off, but you also need the strength in your hands and fingers to catch onto the next set of holds and to keep a hold.
The best way to train for dynos is by training both your grip strength and your leg strength. Incorporate any leg exercises into your daily cross-training, as this will help give your legs extra power when you launch into a dyno. Make sure you aren’t neglecting your arms and hands, though, as these are what will absorb the force of the dyno and keep you holding on once you complete the dyno.
Having good technique is essential to your success in dynos. The best way to figure out how to practice dynos is by learning the proper technique. Part of the technique is launching off, part is catching, and part is looking and giving yourself the best chance of holding on. We’ll delve deeper into the techniques associated with dynos later, though, so keep reading!
How Do You Become Good with Dynos?
The best way to become good with dynos is by practicing. There is no magic training routine that will make you good at dynos. The only true way to improve your skill at dynos is by practicing dynos. You have to have the strength to pull it off, and you have to believe in yourself and your ability to catch the holds, but you don’t get either of those without practicing.
How to train for dyno climbing? Here are our suggestions to prepare to practice dynos; here are some exercises and workouts that we recommend trying. These workouts or moves focus on improving your thigh strength, core muscles, and grip strength.
Your legs are what push you up into a dyno, so make sure you pay attention to them.
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Your core helps you keep your body from swinging you off a hold once you do catch it and is crucial to your dyno success.
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Your arms and your grip strength are what help you catch onto the hold at the top of a dyno.
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3 Techniques on How to Dyno for Beginners
There are lots of different techniques that people swear by when it comes to dynos. Here are some of our favorites, but you’ll have to try them out and figure out what works well for you.
1. Find the right starting holds
Picking the best handholds and footholds to start on is essential to your success doing dynos. Make sure you pick handholds that are level with one another and not too far apart. This will allow you the most focus and stability when launching into your dyno.
As far as your footholds go, the distance they should be from the handholds depends entirely on how long the dyno is. The longer the dyno is, the closer the footholds and the handholds should be. For a shorter dyno, you can get away with having your feet farther away from your hands, but you won’t get the same amount of power as you would from having your feet closer.
2. Bend your legs!!!
Bending your legs is the only way to give yourself enough power to complete a dyno. If you try to dyno by pulling with your arms instead of pushing with your legs, you are much more likely to hurt yourself, and you won’t have the same power to get to the top hold of the dyno.
Keep your arms straight, bend your legs, keep your eyes focused on the place you want to land and push off. Make sure you are pushing with your legs and utilizing all the power that your leg muscles have. Trying to dyno with straight legs will result in minimal power and a minimal distance being covered.
3. Catch at your dead point
Your dead point is the point in your jump or dyno when you are no longer moving upward, but you haven’t yet started to fall back down. Catching onto the top hold of a dyno at this exact moment will allow you to settle into the hold as opposed to moving off of it super easy.
If you try to overshoot your dyno and catch the hold on the way up, your momentum might pull you up and off the hold. Catching a hold on the way down can work, but it puts a lot of pressure on your joints. The best time to catch a dyno to be the most successful and to minimize the risk of injury is at your dead point time.
3 Safety Tips for Dyno Climbing
While dynamic moves can be fun, they also come with a large amount of risk. Making sure that you stay safe while doing dynos is essential, so here are some of our best tips and tricks to help keep you safe.
1. Practice with a safe fall
Make sure you practice dynos before you are required to do them for a route. Either practice with a great spotter and good pads under you or with a great belayer who can give you a soft catch on a rope. Either way, make sure you think of what is below you before you start practicing at all.
2. Be aware of the risks of doing a dyno.
People who think that dynos are nothing but jumping are the most likely to get hurt doing a dyno. Understanding that dynos are dangerous and knowing what could go wrong is a great way to help make sure you dyno safely. Not only are your ankles and legs at risk if you fall badly, but a bad catch can damage your wrists, elbows, and shoulders.
3. Commit to the dyno.
Not committing to the dyno or second-guessing yourself while in the air is a surefire way to miss the dyno. You truly have to believe that you will catch the dyno and not back off at the last second. Backing off as you launch into a dyno will only put you at more risk of getting hurt. If you are doubting yourself or don’t see yourself being able to do a dyno, go and practice on a smaller one before attempting it again.
Wrapping Things Up: What is Dyno Climbing and How to Do It?
Dynos are a great way to cover a large distance fast. Once you are good at them, they take minimal effort and are an effective way to climb. The challenge with dynos is that they are challenging and risky to learn, but with our tips and tricks, you will be well on your way to mastering the dyno.